Open Superior

23 August 2007, Day Four

Chippewa Harbor

I arose this morning at first light and began packing. An early start minimizes paddling against head wind; if the morning is still, it usually stays fairly calm until noon. Not that I think it matters much today. I am headed for Moskey Basin, deep within protected Rock Harbor.

As I cross Middle Island Passage, however, I notice waves gentling lapping on the shore. Where yesterday there was a distinct curl breaking around the north end of Dragon Island, this morning there is barely a ripple. Unconscious that I've made any decision, I watch my boat swing left toward open Superior water and the exposed shore.

I’ll just check out Conglomerate Bay. But some part of me knows where I am headed. My path across Conglomerate forgoes the interesting shoreline and heads toward the distant point. In the middle of the Bay I tuck behind a rock and scramble out for a cup of granola and the weather report. Perfect timing. As the Voyager passes I am protected from her wake. Two kayakers show up on the horizon and for a moment I hope that I’ll have company or even backup in the adventure ahead. But they turn and dive deep into the bay.

Do they know something I don’t? Don’t let stories in my mind take the place of what I see in the waves! But my hands are shaking as I pull the weather radio and breakfast out of the deck bag. The forecast is good – one foot waves at the center Superior buoy. I am riding swells on which I am stable and could self rescue. In this sea I can land along most of the shore. If I am ever to make a solo paddle to Chippewa, these conditions are ideal.